It’s always a little bit odd when you remember the humble beginnings of someone’s career, especially the dodgy fashion reality show that I first encountered Gareth Pugh on, although, after this collection he is well and truly forgiven. For I do declare it my favourite of Fashion Week – and while we are only on day 2, it will be hard to top it.
Removing the models identity from the runway by having them all don stocking face masks, with wigs that transported them into the realm of 70’s Glam / Studio 54 / Scary Clown it hopefully served as a reminder that the catwalk show space should be all about the clothes, not the model wearing them or which celebrity has rolled out for the show.
The collection, a punchy and powerful fashion rebellion, in a style that only Pugh can have fused together a wonder of palette sequins and latex. While the range started with a fusion of 70’s and 80’s glam – one shoulders maxi dresses, wide legged striped trousers and skirts and lashings of gold sequins in the shape of plunging v-neck top and like with other shows, the rules of the stripe were thrown out the window as they cascaded down and around the skirts.
Pugh’s strong tailoring skills kicked into play with some beautifully structured and sculpted jackets, culminating in a giant neck bow (think Viktor and Rolf). Asymmetric cutting was the order of the day and the glam floor length gowns were slashed and one shouldered.
There was a particularly beautiful gathered chiffon body, with a train, accompanied by some amazing red latex tights.
The models, who at times looked a little unstable on the shoes walked with grace and power and it was clear that the fierceness these looks wanted to serve up was embodied by the women wearing them.
Phase two saw fur being added to the mix and the glamour chart went up a notch. White furs teamed with white latex coats with over sized fur collars, pencils skirts and white latex leggings had an almost sinister purity about them.
A monochrome diamond print broke up the collection and formed boxy dresses and a rather Seventies esque androgynous jacket and wide leg trouser. Before more slashed, asymmetric, one shoulder dresses in black and accented with red latex tights made their debut.
Again panel details and mix fabrications played a huge role here and as the collection moved into its third and final phase of leather box and biker dresses with gold palette sequin sleeves and funnel necks, as well as red palette sequins that covered a 3D structured jacket with semi-circular, architectural collar. Before ending on full palette sequins – never a bad thing.
The catwalk which was dark and dingy and accented with red flashing lights accentuated the sinister and dark elements of this collection which however when fused together with Pugh’s talent becomes something of pure glamour, even if it is a little bit dark.
Now how can we up our latex content for SS16
- Palette Sequins (thank goodness!)
- Red, White, Black and Gold
- Latex (this will be tricky)
- Fur (always a winner)
- One shoulder maxis
- Mix fabrications